Hazrat Daud Cave near Samarkand

The stairway: 1,303 steps

• About 300 m of height
• Horse or donkey optional
• Go early in summer

The climb starts in Aksay at about 980 metres and ends at about 1,280: three hundred metres of height on an old stone staircase. Small stalls line the way with water, dried fruit, mountain herbs and souvenirs, and there are places to stop and catch your breath. Take it at your own pace and allow up to an hour for the way up. If you would rather not climb, horses and donkeys carry visitors up a trail beside the stairs in about half an hour.

The hilltop mosque and the view

• 1,280 m above sea level
• Best photos in morning light
• Pilgrims pray here

At the top stands a small mosque and a viewing point. Below you the whole Samarkand valley opens up: green fields, the village roofs of Aksay, and on a clear day the line of the mountains far beyond. This is where everyone stops for photos — and where you understand why people have climbed here for centuries.

The cave of Hazrat Daud

• Narrow, lit passage
• Quiet place of prayer
• Make a wish

About 200 steps down the other side of the mosque is the cave itself: a long, narrow passage into the rock, lit by a string of lamps. At its far end are the marks believed to be the prints of the Prophet's hands and feet. Pilgrims touch them, pray quietly and make a wish — local belief says wishes made here come true. Visitors of any faith are welcome; go slowly and keep your voice down.

The story and the place

• Who was Hazrat Daud?Daud is the Arabic name of David — the shepherd who defeated Goliath and became king of Israel, a prophet in Islam and a king and psalmist for Jews and Christians. That one figure is honoured by three faiths is part of what makes the place feel open to everyone who comes.
• The legendsLocal tradition tells that Daud came to this land to preach and was pursued by enemies into the mountains. He prayed, the rock softened under his hands like wax, and he passed through the mountain to safety — leaving the prints you see in the cave. Another version ties the story to his flight from Goliath. Either way, the gift of softening hard metal and stone is why Daud is also remembered as the patron of blacksmiths.
• A living pilgrimage siteThis is not a museum. Families come from all over Uzbekistan, many of them to make a wish, and you will hear prayers in the mosque and the cave. Visitors are welcome to watch and take photos outside; inside the cave, ask before photographing people.

Before you go

• Getting thereAksay is about 40 km from Samarkand, roughly an hour by car through farmland and villages. The climb begins in the village, by a tourist information centre and a guest house. There is no practical public transport for a visitor, so a car with a driver is the easy way: it waits at the foot of the stairs while you climb and takes you straight back.
• How long it takesPlan four to five hours from Samarkand and back: two hours on the road, and two to three for the climb, the mosque, the cave and the walk down. Leave in the morning and you are back in the city for a late lunch.
• When to goSpring and autumn are ideal. In July and August start early — the stairs are in full sun by midday. In winter and after rain the stone steps can be slippery, so wear shoes with a good grip.
• What to wear and bringShoulders and knees covered, as at any shrine, and a scarf for women for the mosque and the cave. Comfortable shoes, water, a hat and sunscreen in the warm months, and some cash for the stalls or a horse ride up.

What we can arrange

All of it we book ourselves. Write once with your dates and you get an answer with a price, not another search form.

• A hotelfrom a family guesthouse to the big complexes
• A car with a driverairport pickup, day trips, transfers between cities
• A guide for the dayin the language you are comfortable in
• Train ticketsTashkent — Samarkand — Bukhara, booked ahead
• A table for dinnerthe tea houses and restaurants we use ourselves