
Tashkent
The largest city in Central Asia and the one nobody plans time for. Give it a day and a half anyway: the Chorsu bazaar under its blue dome, the metro, and the food, which is the best in the country and the cheapest.
ITINERARY
Ten days is enough for the four cities everyone comes for — Tashkent, Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand — with a night in the desert in between. Below is the route day by day, how to get from one city to the next, and what to know before you book. It is the trip we run ourselves, so nothing here is theory.
Land, drop the bags and start easy: the Hazrati Imam complex, the museum of applied arts, dinner where the city eats. Most flights come in early morning, so the first day is longer than it looks.
The modern half — Independence Square, Amir Timur Square, and the metro, where every station was designed as its own room. Photography underground is allowed now; it was not until 2018.
An hour and a half in the air instead of a night on the train, then 30 km by road. Sleep inside Ichan Kala, the walled town: after the day visitors leave, it is yours.
480 km across the Kyzylkum along the Amu Darya, eight to nine hours with stops. The road is the point, not the price of getting there: desert, the river, tea at a roadside cafe.
The one city on the route you never get into a car for. Lyabi-Hauz, the Poi-Kalyan complex, the Ark, the trading domes — all of it within twenty minutes on foot of each other.
The Chashma spring at Nurata, petroglyphs in the hills, and then the desert: a yurt, a fire, dinner under a sky with nothing else lit under it.
Camels in the morning if you want them, then the lake — Aydarkul is man-made and enormous, and you can swim in it. Lunch by the water, then on to Samarkand.
The Registan, Gur-e Amir, Bibi-Khanym, Shah-i-Zinda and the Siyob bazaar. Start at opening time: by ten the squares belong to the groups, and the light is better early anyway.
South over the pass to Timur’s home town, where he built a palace so large that its surviving gate is 38 m tall. Back in Samarkand for the evening.
Two hours on the fast train, a last few hours in the city, then the airport. Leave the shopping for Tashkent — the bazaar there is cheaper than the tourist rows.

The largest city in Central Asia and the one nobody plans time for. Give it a day and a half anyway: the Chorsu bazaar under its blue dome, the metro, and the food, which is the best in the country and the cheapest.

A walled town of clay and brick, the first place in Uzbekistan on the UNESCO list. Small enough to walk end to end in twenty minutes, which is why staying the night inside the walls changes it completely.

The most whole of the old cities: not monuments with a town around them but a town that never stopped being one. Narrow streets, shaded squares, and a minaret Genghis Khan reportedly refused to destroy.

The night between the cities. A camp of yurts in the desert, camels, and a lake that appeared in the 1960s when a dam overflowed — 3,000 square kilometres of water where the map says sand.

Three madrasahs around one square, a street of tombs climbing a hill, and Timur under a ribbed turquoise dome. Two full days is the least it takes; we have a page of its own for it.
Hotels, the flight to Urgench, the desert crossing, guides in every city and the yurt camp — booked as one trip, with one person answering for it.
All of it we book ourselves. Write once with your dates and you get an answer with a price, not another search form.